Vaxholm Guide
Plan your perfect archipelago summer with local tips on seasons, neighborhoods, islands, and must-do adventures.
Explore Every Island
Events
Skärgårdsdag
Harbour festival with boats, live music, and herring grills, kicking off Vaxholm’s sunny archipelago summer.
Skärgårdsmarknad
Weekly summer market on the square with crafts, local delicacies, and island farmers arriving by boat.
Getting Here
Vaxholm is closer than it looks on the map, and getting here is half the fun. Here are the three easiest ways to arrive, depending on your mood and schedule.
- 🚌 Bus 670 from Tekniska högskolan (T-bana red line) is the easiest public transport option. It runs regularly, takes about 50 minutes, and drops you right in the center of Vaxholm. Cheap, scenic, and very Swedish — you will be riding with commuters, school kids, and weekend locals heading out to their boats.
- 🚗 By car it is about 35–40 minutes from central Stockholm via Norrtäljevägen (E18 north, then Route 274). You will find parking near the harbor, and it is a good option if you plan to explore several spots in one day or continue further out into the archipelago.
- ⛴️ Vaxholm ferry is the most atmospheric way to arrive. Waxholmsbolaget runs regular boats from Strömkajen in central Stockholm. The trip takes around 80–90 minutes, but the views of the islands, red boathouses, and pine-covered rocks make every minute worth it.
If you have the time, take the ferry out and the bus back — it gives you both the classic archipelago approach and the quick ride home.
Swimming Spots on Resarö
Resarö is where many locals from Vaxholm actually swim. Here is Agaton’s personal ranking of the island’s best spots.
- 🏆 Eriksö Beach is the local favourite. A sandy beach with calm water, a gentle entry, and space for blankets and beach games. It is a short bike ride from Vaxholm center, and you will find families, teenagers, and grandparents all sharing the same stretch of shoreline. When locals bother to go here instead of staying on their own docks, you know it is good.
- 🪨 Norrberget cliffs are for those who prefer a clean, rocky plunge into clear water. This spot is not ideal for small kids, but if you like sun-warmed granite, deep water, and the feeling of diving straight into the archipelago, this is the place. Popular with teenagers and adults who are comfortable on uneven rocks.
- 🌿 Skarpäng bay is quieter and more sheltered, especially on windy days. Surrounded by green trees and soft slopes, it feels tucked away and a bit slower. Bring a book and plan to stay a while.
Kid-friendly note: Eriksö Beach is the clear winner for families. The water is calm and shallow for a long way out, and Vaxön Camping nearby means access to basic facilities, ice cream, and emergency snacks.
A Day in Vaxholm
This is how Agaton would show you Vaxholm on a perfect summer day, from first coffee to the last light on the water.
Morning: Start with an easy walk along the harbor. Grab a coffee and a cinnamon bun at one of the waterfront cafés, sit facing the water, and let the first ferries and small boats set the tone for the day.
Late morning: Take the small ferry across to Vaxholms Kastell, the old fortress on its own little island. Wander the ramparts, visit the museum, and give yourself 1.5–2 hours to explore and enjoy the views back toward town.
Lunch: Head back to Vaxholm and walk up to the main square by the harbor. Order a shrimp toast or a simple fish dish at one of the restaurants and try to sit outside if the weather allows. This is where people-watching becomes a proper activity.
Afternoon: Rent a kayak or a bike and make your way toward Eriksö. If you are on the water, keep close to the shore and enjoy the slow rhythm between the islands. If you are biking, roll out past wooden houses and quiet side streets until you reach Eriksö Beach for a swim.
Evening: Back in town, treat yourself to ice cream at Glass på Hörnet by the old Vaxholm Hotel. Then take a slow stroll along the waterfront as the light softens and the wooden houses turn golden. If you are lucky, you will catch the last ferries gliding past in near-silence.
Best Season to Visit
Vaxholm changes character with the seasons. Here is how it feels at different times of year, and when Agaton thinks you will get the most out of your trip.
- ☀️ Summer (June–August) is the obvious choice. Everything is open, the water is finally warm enough for long swims, and the ferries run on full schedules. The archipelago is alive with boats, visitors, and long light evenings. This is peak season, so you will have company everywhere you go, but that is also part of the charm.
- 🍂 Off-season charm (September–May) brings out a quieter, more contemplative Vaxholm. The fortress is less crowded, the light turns golden and slightly moody, and cafés feel cozy rather than chaotic. Some activities and boats run on reduced schedules, so you need to plan a little more, but if you want to feel the real soul of the place, come in September or May when the summer rush has eased.
Agaton’s verdict: “I love August for first-timers — everything is at its best. But my personal favourite is early September: warm enough, quiet enough, and the evenings are magic.”
Eating & Fika — Honest Picks
Vaxholm is not about fine dining so much as good, honest food in great locations. Here are Agaton’s straightforward recommendations, the kind he would text a friend.
- ☕ Fika first — start with coffee and something sweet. Several cafés line the harbor, and the good ones have trays of still-warm cinnamon buns and cardamom rolls. If you can see the water from your table, you have chosen well.
- 🦐 Räkmacka (shrimp toast) is a Swedish classic that is hard to get wrong but surprisingly easy to get just right here. Order it at one of the harbor restaurants, ask to sit outside, and take your time piling shrimp onto each forkful. Consider this non-negotiable.
- 🍦 Glass på Hörnet, by the old Vaxholm Hotel in the city center, is Agaton’s ice cream pick. There is usually a line on sunny days, but it moves fast. Go. Just go.
- 🐟 Fresh fish — in summer, look for the small fish stalls near the harbor. Smoked salmon, pickled herring, and other simple specialties are perfect for a picnic. Buy a little mix, find a flat rock with a view, and call it lunch or an early dinner.
You do not need reservations or a long list of addresses here. Follow the harbor, follow your nose, and aim for wherever looks busy but relaxed.
Out on the Water
Vaxholm makes the most sense when you get out onto the water, even if only for an hour or two. You do not need to be an expert — just curious.
- 🚣 Kayak rentals are available in and around Vaxholm in summer. Paddling between the islands is one of the best ways to feel the archipelago at your own pace. The area near the Vaxholm Canoe Club and around Eriksö offers calm, sheltered routes that are perfect for beginners.
- ⛵ Boat tours with Waxholmsbolaget let you hop on regular archipelago routes that double as slow, beautiful sightseeing trips. For something more curated or active on the water, you can always reach out to Agaton for a guided experience tailored to your group.
- 🛳️ Watching the ferries is an underrated activity. Sit by the harbor with a coffee and watch the white Waxholmsbolaget boats come and go against a backdrop of small islands and wooden houses. It sounds simple, and it is, but it never really gets old.
- 📍 Where to watch — head to the end of the main pier in Vaxholm harbor. Come early in the morning when there is still a bit of mist on the water and everything feels quieter, or just before sunset when the light turns soft and the boats glow.
Where to Eat and Fika — A Local’s Picks
Vaxholm runs on salt water, sunshine, and fika. These are the places I actually send friends when they come out for the first time — the spots that feel like real Swedish summer, not just something put up for the postcards.
Vaxholms Hembygdsgårds Café – the legendary cake buffet
Tucked right on the water with the archipelago boats gliding past, Hembygdsgården is the classic Vaxholm fika stop. It feels like it has been feeding summer visitors forever: wooden verandas, creaking floors, and the soft clatter of coffee cups. The reason you come, though, is the tårtbuffé — a long table packed with homemade cakes, from creamy berry creations to proper chocolate jobs. You pay once, then take your time, going back for “just one more slice” while watching the light shift over the bay. If you only do one fika in Vaxholm, make it this one.
Camilles Trädgård & Café – like fika in a friend’s garden
Camilles is one of those places you’d walk straight past if you didn’t know it was there. A small, family-run garden café, it feels more like someone’s back garden than a business: trees overhead, mismatched chairs, flowers and herbs everywhere. The crumble cake is the thing to order here — usually packed with whatever fruit or berries are in season.
Boulangerie – the breakfast launch pad
Opens at 7:30. Think crusty loaves, proper croissants, and pastries that still feel warm from the oven. Grab a bag of bread for the boat, a cinnamon bun for now, and you’re set for a day among the islands.
Gateau – fika plus souvenirs
Right in the middle of town. Solid coffee, good pastries, and a built-in shop to pick up a small gift or edible souvenir alongside your fika break.
Hamnkrogen – fried herring and harbor life
Order the stekt strömming with mashed potatoes and lingonberries, add a local beer, and you’re set. Best on a sunny day for lunch or an early dinner.
Bistro Magasinet – seafood with a fortress view
The focus is on seafood, done well. The real magic is out on the deck, facing Vaxholm Fortress across the water. In peak summer, book ahead.
Winbergs – burgers by the water (watch the seagulls)
Good burgers, generous portions, right by the harbor. One honest warning: the seagulls know exactly how good the food is. Hold onto your fries and be ready to laugh.
La Casa – easygoing pizza night
Family-friendly, relaxed, and reliably good for pizza. Kids are welcome, nobody minds sandy feet.
Resarö Paviljong – a detour worth making
On nearby Resarö, this quiet garden café hides in a green pocket of trees and flowers. Most visitors never make it out here, which is exactly why you should.
/ Agaton — However you eat in Vaxholm, eat outside if you can. The light does something to the food.
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